Emu farmers here for the long haul

female birds will intuitively adjust laying rates in accordance with upcoming feed supply levels.

The emu, alongside the kangaroo, sits at the heart of our national coat of arms. In the 1990s, just as the industry prepared for take-off, Australians showed an aversion to chowing down on one of their national symbols. Matters weren't helped by an ineffectual co-op - Emu Industry Australia - that did little to shift public perceptions, secure markets or support the fledgling industry. Then the bird flu hit, decimating the industry almost overnight. In Australia alone, the number of emu farms plummeted from 500 to just a handful of stubborn stalwarts.

One of the faithful who refused to give up on the emu dream is Ian Marston. Ian's 25-year emu journey began when he purchased his 40-hectare farm, Marrocka, at The Rock, 30 kilometres from Wagga Wagga. Quicky realising he'd never make a fortune rearing conventional livestock on a modest holding with marginal rainfall, Ian looked for an alternative. As a serviceman in the Australian Army, Ian saw a niche opportunity to provide feathers to members of the Armoured Corps who adorn their slouch hats with emu plumes. The more Ian investigated emus, the more he became convinced that farming the world's second largest bird could be a winner. When it came to uses, sustainability and best practice agriculture, the emu ticked every box.

Our native ratite has had thousands of years to become perfectly adapted to this land of drought and flooding rains

Our native ratite has had thousands of years to become perfectly adapted to this land of drought and flooding rains. "During periods of prolonged dry," Ian explains, "female birds will intuitively adjust laying rates in accordance with upcoming feed supply levels and, as infrequent drinkers, emus can go weeks without water."

Farmed emus are generally fed via feeders and supplement their diet by grazing on acacia, casuarina and native grasses. They also dine happily on bugs, grasshoppers and moths. And as far as climate goes, they'll tolerate extreme temperatures.

Although the emu's hardiness and adaptability are worthy attributes, it was the lure of its many products - particularly meat - that helped create the great emu investment stampede in the 1990s. Despite our historical aversion to dining on our emblematic bird, a few of Australia's remaining emu farmers have since been leading a quiet crusade to shift public taste. Ian has been working with local butcher Tim Driscoll to develop various cuts and products for markets such as sausages and kebabs. "It tastes like good rump, just a little more gamey," Ian enthuses. "And bang for your buck, it's leaner, healthier and more affordable than beef and lamb."

"It tastes like good rump, just a little more gamey," Ian enthuses. "And bang for your buck, it's leaner, healthier and more affordable than beef and lamb."

While demand for emu meat is at last gathering momentum, it's also rising for other emu products. Farmers are now struggling to meet buyer demand for eggs. High in protein and weighing the equivalent of eight chicken eggs, emu eggs are proving popular with families, bodybuilders and adventurous chefs. Ian sells around 300 blown eggs each year, many of which are purchased by local Wiradjuri artists who carve and paint the eggs for sale in galleries. Feathers are also used to make jewellery and ceremonial items. "We help the Wiradjuri and other groups source cultural materials like eggs and feathers," explains Ian, "and they are helping us understand the deeper cultural value of the emu. In the case of our farm, emus are definitely doing their bit towards reconciliation and healing."

First Nations Australians have long understood the healing properties of the emu, in particular its oil. While emu meat from the main carcass contains less than 1.5% fat, it's fatty back section can yield around 7 to 12 litres of oil when rendered and refined. And it's this oil which is set to give the emu industry a second chance at take-off. Emu oil is fast gaining popularity for its medicinal and health-giving properties, many of which are still being discovered. The oil is rich in vitamins A, D, E, F and Omega 3, 6, 7 and 9, and thanks to its incredible penetrating properties has found extensive use in natural heath, beauty and cosmetics products. The list of benefits is as long as an emu's leg, from supporting healthy cholesterol, hair and skin, to reducing the symptoms of arthritis and burns. Of course, big pharma - especially in the USA - is quick to point out the paucity of research to back up claims of the oil's efficacy, but anyone who has been around emu oil long enough will point to the growing mountain of testimonials and anecdotal evidence from adherents. "People keep coming back for more, and have been doing so year after year," says Ian, "and now demand is growing internationally, especially in China and India where natural medicines are widely accepted."

Ian says the industry is also crying out for a co-ordinated approach to developing marketing, export sales and processing infrastructure. "As demand grows," says Ian, "we're facing competition from well-established US and South American farms, as well as start-ups in India and China."

The discovery of immune-boosting vitamin K2 in emu oil, and its application for alleviating intestinal ulcers and bone loss in chemotherapy patients has recently been studied at the University of Adelaide, with promising results. While the production of emu oil is starting to pay big dividends for Australia's few remaining farmers, more studies are needed for the industry to truly take off. Ian says the industry is also crying out for a co-ordinated approach to developing marketing, export sales and processing infrastructure. "As demand grows," says Ian, "we're facing competition from well-established US and South American farms, as well as start-ups in India and China."

"We're ready," says Ian, "and today's national palette is far more adventurous. Given today's sky-high beef and lamb prices, I reckon this time round Aussies will get on board."

Aussie emu farmers have certainly put in the hard yards and many have the scars to prove it. "When we kicked off the industry in the 1990s we knew nothing about farming emus," says Ian. "Our birds were wild and unmanageable, injuries to farmers were rife and the meat was tough and mostly fit for petfood." Farmers like Ian have spent over 20 years learning by trial and error but have finally perfected their practices. Farm-raised birds are now calm, and farmers know exactly what to feed them and when's the perfect time to process their mobs to maximise meat quality and oil yield. "We're ready," says Ian, "and today's national palette is far more adventurous. Given today's sky-high beef and lamb prices, I reckon this time round Aussies will get on board." And judging by the number of his colleagues investing in regional and smaller on-farm abattoirs and oil processing plants, it's hard not to share his optimism.

It's been decades since the Australian economy rode on the sheep's back. While it's unlikely that our emu industry will ever reach such lofty heights, it's been a wild ride so far, and one which now looks set to continue for the long run.